Setting aside digital map projection, the two most popular reusable RPG mapping solutions out there are dry-erase boards and wet-erase mats.
The former come in a variety of sizes, from commercial white boards to options designed specifically for RPGs, like the unbelievably awesome Tact-Tiles. The latter most commonly come in the form of gaming-specific flexible mats, offered with a wide range of grid and hex options.
I got my start with reusable gaming maps using one of those giant wet-erase battlemats, and have since switched to Tact-Tiles. I much prefer dry-erase maps to their wet-erase counterparts — here’s a point-by-point comparison of dry-erase vs. wet-erase mapping options.
Dry-erase
- Options: Dry-erase boards come in tons of sizes, from versatile hand-held boards to wall-mounted monsters. Tact-Tiles offer a modular solution unlike any other mapping tool. (+)
- Portability: With the exception of small boards, dry-erase maps are less portable than their flexible wet-erase counterparts. (–)
- Cleaning: Easier to clean off, and require fewer tools (just markers and an eraser, vs. markers, water and something to wipe with for wet-erase). (+)
- Messiness: No water means dry-erase boards are a lot less messy. (+)
- Stains: Dry-erase boards rarely stain, and when they do the stains are easy to remove. (+)
- Grids and Hexes: Unless you like blank surfaces or 1″ grids, you’re out of luck — no hexes, no other grid sizes. (–)
- Price: Somewhat more expensive than comparably-sized wet-erase mats. (–)
Wet-erase
- Options: Wet-erase mats come in a wide range of sizes, from mini-mats to mats that will cover your whole table and then some. No modular option, though. (–)
- Portability: Flexible mats are easier to transport than all but the smallest dry-erase boards. (+)
- Cleaning: More tools required, since you not only need markers and something to erase with, you also need water on hand. (–)
- Messiness: Not so tidy, because of the wet paper towels and soggy sponges involved. (–)
- Stains: Retain certain colors, particularly red and orange, unless you wipe them off shortly after use. (Stains can be eliminated, but that can be a pain in and of itself.) (–)
- Grids and Hexes: Different grid sizes and hex options available, including double-sided mats with both hexes and squares. (+)
- Price: Generally cheaper than dry-erase, especially in larger sizes. (+)
Conclusions
Dry-erase wins on options, cleaning, messiness and stains; wet-erase wins on portability, grids and hexes and price.
If toting your map board/mat isn’t a problem and you’re willing to throw a bit more money at a good mapping solution, there’s no question that a dry-erase board or a set of Tact-Tiles will be easier to use and stay clean longer.
If you don’t have a permanent gaming space available, if you travel to run games or if price is your main concern, then a wet-erase map may be a better option overall.
Different options may also matter more to you than they might to other GMs. For example, I’m pretty anal about cleanliness, so the messiness of wet-erase mats bothers me more than it might bother most GMs.
Knocking over the water, having sopping paper towels to deal with and getting to see the dungeon I stupidly drew with a red marker a year ago drove me up the wall — your mileage, of course, may vary.
Nice article, Martin. I recently started printing out my own maps from Photoshop here at work (nice, large color printers) for any major planned encounters. For everything else, I use the folding battle grid from Steel Squire that allows both wet and dry erase markers (and even permanent markers, to an extent).
Good point about SQ’s flip-mats — I actually thought they were dry-erase only, not both. They seem like a good solution in a lot of respects, although I’ve never tried them. Thanks for the recommendations!
This article gels with a project I just thought of.
I once had an office that had a glass wall and no whiteboard. I like to use whiteboards to write lines of code and the logic of scripts and programs out when I start a new project, so I just started writing everything with a dry erase marker onto the glass wall.
Just a couple of days ago it occurred to me that I should take my battle mat and encase it between a backing of some sort and a sheet of plexiglass on the top. Add some hinges and a way to snap it shut then I would have a sort of map case for the mat. I could use dry erase markers for when the mat is in the case, but if I needed to go somewhere I could open the case and roll up the mat to take with me.
I like the look of the Steel Sqwire mat though, and maybe I’ll buy one to be my travelling mat.
Another option for the dry-erase types. A poster-sized frame with a clear cover. Functions as a dry-erase board (might need some water on occasion, but normally not), and you can place a grid, map, or anything else underneath. 2 different gaming groups of mine have used it to good effect.
I will third Cody’s recommendation of the Steel Squire flip-mat. I use it exclusively for my own games. The fact that it folds up into an 8.5×11 sized sheet makes it extremely easy to transport with my other gaming tools.
Nice comparison, though on messiness, I find dry erase almost as messy. It rubs off much easier, and when it rubs off, it rubs off in flakes that really still need a wet cloth for cleanup (caveat: I have not tried any of the gaming products, I’m basing my opinions of dry erase on office white boards and the magnetic white board I use for initiative tracking).
The modularity option is nice. It would be easy to trim a vinyl wet erase mat and even cut it into smaller sizes so that it could be used as a modular mat.
For cleaning, I like that I can give my vinyl mats a bath. Aren’t the gaming dry erase boards all cardboard backing which means if they do need a more severe cleaning you can’t just dunk them?
I have a clear vinyl wet erase mat with hexes(sadly no longer available, I want one with squares also) which makes it trivial to turn any map into a hex map (the clear vinyl also stains much less and is easier to clean, on the other hand, it sticks together when you roll it up, especially if damp, it’s also thinner which may be a portability advantage but could be a ruggedness issue).
I’m not sure about the life expectancy of the dry erase boards. I still have my original Batttlemat that must be close to 25 years old now (I can’t remember exactly when I got it – think I got it before college). All but my newest mat (purchased when I started my Arcana Evolved campaign because I couldn’t find my square mat and assumed I had sold it) are definitely at least 20 years old.
Frank
Frank: The Tact-Tiles are solid plastic. You could probably put them in the dishwasher.
A clear mat (grid-only) would simply rock…
Just a note – having kids now I’ve learned that the washable markers are the way to go. They don’t stain the vinyl of a battle mat and are much easier to wipe away with less mess. Instead of using water and a cloth I keep a package of cleaning wipes at the table. That way I can grab a moist wipe and don’t need to have water at the table. When I did use water I used a spray bottle with a little bit of cleaner in it. That worked very well for me.
I don’t know that I’d say wet erase are more messy that dry erase. Wet erase can be more messy to CLEAN, sure but dry erase is messier to have around, since reaching across the board to move your mini can not only destroy a portion of the map, it can leave a nasty stain on your sleeve.
You can always add a grid to a small dry-erase board by marking one off in whatever scale you choose using a good old-fashioned ruler (or yardstick, depending on the size of your board) and a blue permanant marker. Just don’t use permanent marker when drawing your dungeon (this goes for wet and dry-erase), or it will be there FOREVER!
I gotta say, not putting the flip-mat in that post is a major oversight…
It’s got almost everything you’re looking for… The only category it doesn’t have the best of both worlds in is options since they’re only one size. They do come in a variety of themes, though.
They’re cheap ($10 a piece), portable, available with squares and hexes (on the same mat, opposite sides) and accept both types of erasable markers.
One thing I think you should have mentioned… Availability. I’ve never ever seen a wet erase marker in Staples or Office Max. All they carry are dry erase. In fact, short of ordering them online I don’t know of anywhere where I could get wet erase markers.
Ian – I’m surprised by that, because every office supply store I’ve ever gone to has overhead transparency markers which are wet erase. I just use plain old Crayola Washable markers now and they work just fine. You can get those at any Wal-Mart or drugstore chain usually.
Just a note, I think Tact-Tiles are unavailable right now. I tried to buy a second set a while back and they told me that someone in their supply chain went out of business.
I checked again today and they’re still listed as sold out…
Still, I love the set I have 🙂
One way to limit mess with wet erase boards is to buy a little spritzer of the mild cleaning solution. It probably has just a little alcohol in it. Keep a dry rag around, pull your minis and what-not off the board, and just give the map a few spritzes with the cleaning solution. Wipe it off with the rag and you’re good to go. It helps keep away stains, is less messy than a handful of wet rags and water, and is fairly portable.
BTW, I’m also one for saying wet-erase is not always cleaner than dry-erase. I just think that dry-erase is going to be better in general for RPG use since you’ll be needing to erase often. The things can still stain fairly easily, though admittedly not as much as wet-erase seems to. (Leave dry-erase marker on long enough, and it’s a ***** to clean. In those cases I go w/ alcohol+water or vinegar+water solution of a very mild concentration and start scrubbing w/ a dishrag or washcloth.)
If you really want hex grids on a dry-erase board, I suggest using a stencil and some latex paint, but preferably the type that’s water-resistant and won’t come off w/ a little acid or alcohol, and then painting on a hex grid, though perhaps not the full grid, so you don’t have problems w/ trying to center the stencil. Basically, point only. If you stencil it right, your main problem is making the stencil, but then you have a stencil and can use it any time you need to make another.
One option is this:
– Make your map or get it into image format as a jpg or other image file.
– Go to your local office store with a copy center.
– Print it out on their large format printers (about 2-3 dollars for black and white).
– Get it laminated. (About 3 more dollars)
– Use wet or dry erase depending on the type of lamination.
– They can also laminate on foam board or poster board for sturdiness.
This option is a little more expensive, but it works great for permanent fixtures like world maps and the like. I am currently running a war based campaign and drawing the line of demarcation, or marking noted troop movements is really easy with this.
Good suggestions all around! I definitely dig laminated maps, and I’ve seen pictures of some sweet under-plexi setups (never tried that, though).
(Brandon) One way to limit mess with wet erase boards is to buy a little spritzer of the mild cleaning solution.
Now why the hell didn’t I ever think of this? That would have made life so much easier!
Re: Tact-Tiles
According to one of the guys at the Paizo booth at the Origins convention, Tact-Tiles are no longer in production. I didn’t get the Paizo reps name, but he said he was the one that actually sold advertising in Dragon to Tact-Tiles.
That being said, there is no copyright or trademark upon the design (can’t get one, as it falls under the same heading as a chess board for soem reason) and some manufacturers are considering putting forth their own designs.